Maiden Cliff

An early spring sunny Sunday morning and a phone call from friends with an offer for a mountain walk in our favorite Rhodope Mountain. This time the suggestion is for a place, called Maiden Cliff. The legend tells of a girl who jumped from this rock (and this is where comes the name of the rock) to avoid becoming a victim of the Turks. There are several places in Bulgaria that have the same name and the common between them is exactly this legend. So if you ever happen to be in a place, called Maiden Cliff, you’d know where it comes from.

After a quick research in internet how to get there and some rapidly prepared sandwiched we were already on the road. Our first destination and departure point was the village of Hrabrino, 15 km southwest of Plovdiv. We were supposed to walk about an hour and we read that we have to follow the white-yellow marking and the signs to hut Zdravets. In the middle of the village, where we parked the car we asked the locals and they explained us better how to reach the path that will lead us to the rocks. At first sight, everything was clear.

A view to the village somewhere on the way

We were walking south, along the river, actually upstream of the river until we reached the first point that we had to decide left or right. The problem was that there was no marking and half of us have remembered right, the others - left. Following the logic we took the left path as this was the direction we had to keep – a little bit to the east and up. But after that we lost the marking. Anyway, we were sure this is the correct path and we followed it for a long time. In about 40 minutes walking, and after a long time we have already lost the path, we saw the chapel we were told it’s on our way. When we finally reached it through some bushes and branches on our way, we realized that we have taken the wrong path. Luckily, following the direction, we managed to find the place. 

In front of the chapel "St. Virgin Mary"

Close to the chapel there is a fountain with cold mountain water and here our both guides exclaimed in one voice: “We’ve been here!” They were so surprised to realize it!  They explained that a friend of theirs took them to the same place a month ago and the departure point was not Hrabrino village but Izvor village, they just didn’t remember the rock name... And there, at the chapel both ways connect in one. At the beginning they felt a little bit screwed up but the place really worth it to be seen, so soon they were happy again.

Taking the path right of the fountain, keeping south west direction and following a cart road, in about 5-10 minutes we reached the rocks. 
And here it came the view, the freedom feeling, the peace, the greatness…In silence we just stood watching and deep breathing. The sun and the wind contributed to the majestic feeling. The river passes down forming wonderful canyon. In late spring probably would be greener and even more beautiful, well, we can always come back. So spectacular views that it was hard to decide which pictures to share (more pictures at the end of the itinerary).

In about an hour resting and collecting moments we went on our way back, this time we took the right path, which by the way seemed to be steeper than our invented path. But the way is going down along the river, all the time and from time to time appeared beautiful landscapes.

Here are some tips for the tourists:

Starting from Hrabrino - go upstream of the river, the direction is south west. There is a marking white-yellow and signs to hut Zdravets. In the beginning you go along a cart road. In about 5 minutes you reach a point where the way goes left and right, take the right way by the river and in 3-4 meters you’ll see the marking again. If you take the left one, you’ll lose the marking immediately. After some 200-300 meters you’ll see a yellow-orange fence and just before it, the path goes left. Then you can’t miss it if you follow the marking. The way to the chapel is steep but it’s not impossible even for kids or old people. After the chapel you take the cart road on the right and soon the rocks appear. The whole way takes about 45-60 minutes.

Starting from Izvor (Izvor is located about 4-5 km east of Hrabrino) – you park in the center, where there is only a square and the famous building from the past communist time that used to be a shop, restaurant and hotel together, the so-called “HoReMag”. Go up the street that passes by the building and maybe you can ask the locals, but the tip here is that your way passes by the cemetery which is above the village. Our friends told us that it’s about 20 minutes walking and the way is very easy. You’ll see the chapel on your right and you should continue straight to reach the cliffs.

If you happen to make this journey, don't hesitate to ask me for more details.
And the rest of the photos:

The snow white journey to Flam and Bergen

Some of the spectacular landscape

As I had to wake up too early in the morning, Peter was so kind to drive me to the station in Mysen so that I can take the train to Oslo (See the first part of my Norway trip). It was a working day and there were so many people in that early hour that were going to work. In 50 minutes I was already at the Oslo S and easily took my ticket to Myrdal, the place where I was supposed to take the tourist Flam train. So, with a coffee and a sandwich I got on the comfortable train. There was a group of maybe 20-30 people, dressed in ski clothes, going for some winter holiday. They were at different ages and all seemed happy and enthusiastic for what they were about to experience.
I spent most of the time looking through the window and enjoying the view. I've been told that the line Oslo-Bergen offers one of the most scenic rail journeys and I guess it's true, at least from what I have seen before. The thermometer in the train was showing the temperature outside -17/-18 degrees but it was sunny and I felt warm inside. Those few hours passed pretty fast and soon I was at Myrdal Station impatient for the next  hour trip - the one I have come for, the wonderful Flam Valley!

The sky above Myrdal

In the train I met two Brazilians on their Europe tour (they have already passed through Bulgaria and I was surprised we were talking about my home place) and we were helping each other with the pictures in the next one hour. The train was moving too slow so that we can revel the landscape and feel it. There were few stops, even they let us go out of the train at Kjosefossen waterfall which was frozen in the all shades of the white - so beautiful! We passed through numerous tunnels, winding along the way and spectacular valleys. I can only imagine how amazing it would be in the summer to see it all green and blue...We arrived at Flam, where my friend was waiting for me and we proceed to Bergen. All the way in the mountain was so beautiful again, we passed through Naeroyfjiord which is an arm of Sognefjord - the biggest one in Norway. On our way was also Vossevangen town, famous with its water but we didn't stop as we were hurrying to catch Bergen at least 2 hours before it gets dark. By the way, in Norway I drank the most delicious water ever. People there don't buy water, they drink it directly from the tap and it is more than tasty.

The touristic train

Kjosefossen waterfall

The tunnels on the way

Naeroyfjord

At the market

In Bergen, we parked in the center of the city and our first stop was the Fish Market. It used to be an open market but an year ago they have made it indoor. They say it is the biggest market in the region as Bergen used to be the most important fish producing and trading center in Norway (and still is one of the significant industries).
There was a huge variety of fish and seafood and all looked so fresh, like just caught from the sea. And of course, it didn't seem cheap at all - the prawns were 15 EUR/ half kg...but this is Norway.

Bryggen 

Just about 200 m away from the    market is the soul of Bergen, the old  warehouses Bryggen (translated from Norwegian - dock) overlooking the harbor. Their characteristic front is emblematic for the city. Once they were the center of the Hanseatic League and now they are turned into ethnographic shops and galleries and are part of the World Heritage of UNESCO.

Behind the facade they are formed like a little village with small streets, wooden buildings and interesting architecture.

Behind the beautiful facade 

Slightly behind the iconic houses begins the Old Town of Bergen. Fabulous small steep streets with white houses are crossing around it. I noticed that most of them are paved just as in my home city - Plovdiv. Interesting paintings on some house walls's diversify the visitors. Even the small table with flowers in front of one house was really charming in the sunny winter afternoon. It was so quite and it was hard to realize that I'm in the middle of the second biggest city of Norway.

It was time to take a look at the city from above. Railroad Floibanen drove us to the top of the nearby hill. We were thinking of climbing on foot but we were afraid not to miss the sun and the day so we took the funicular. It goes through the Old town and has few stops. I have no idea how people live there, it seems so sheer.
Already on the top, a spectacular view of the city oped in front of us - the harbor, fjords and the sea in the distance. For sure it was one of the best city views I've seen, just breathtaking! I didn't feel the cold weather, just feeling the sun and the freedom. Thanks again to my friend for bringing me there!
There is also a souvenir shop on the top and a cafe so that you can stay little longer and warm yourself with a cup of coffee or tea.

From the Floibanen

The day started to get down and we still had to drive few more hours to Karmoy island. On our way out of the city we stopped for the last time to see Fantoft Stave Church. The Stave Churches are characteristic wooden churches of the Vikings. In Norway there are about 25 of them reserved and in northern Europe 5-6. This one dates from 12th century but after a huge fire it was completely devastated and rebuilt in 1992. I hoped to see it from inside too but in the winter season it is closed for visitors...as I always say - next time.

Late in the evening we arrived at my friend's place tired but full of emotions during the day. A wonderful island trip was planned for the next day....

Here you can see more pictures from Bergen and Oslo and Flam Valley.

Pre-Christmas in Brasov II

The breathtaking view

After spending the previous day in Brasov it was time to go around its surroundings. On the next day we had an early fast breakfast, took our luggage and proceeded to Bran to see the popular Dracula's castle. Going out of the city I enjoyed one of the best pictures I've seen - we were in the fields, the sky was clear and blue, it was sunny and the snowy peaks of the mountain were right across us. I live close to the mountain but I rarely remember such a view!

In 15min we were already in Rasnov, a small town near Brasov. Before entering the town we saw a fortress on the hill above it and we decided to see what it is. We ended at a big parking where we bougth tickets for the wagon tractor that was about to take us to the top of the hill. Of course you can go on foot but we couldn't miss to ride in such machine. Soon we reached the fortress where we paid 15 lei/ person to enter. It is a medieval fortress and it has perfect location - view to 360 degrees. It's like a little town with streets and even there are souvenirs shops. You can also receive touristic information inside.

Romanias love to put signs, style "Holywood"

The strange vehicle

Around the fortress streets

Bran's Castle

Time was passing and soon we were on our way back to Bran. In the middle of the town there were parkings on both sides of the road saying: "Parking of the Castle" inviting you to stop and use their service. At least it was cheap - 2 lei/ hour. For the only 500 m we had to walk to the ticket booth, we passed through dozens of stands selling souvenirs, clothes, hats, wine, food, everything you wish. We didn't miss to warm up with hot vin fiert. And there is was - the Castle! To be honest I'm a little bit disappointed of it. Maybe after the castle of Peles I'll hardly love another castle so soon. But they're different - one is older, the other is more luxury and so on. Inside was interesting because of the many towers and stairs we climb, like a labyrinth. On the walls of the last 2 floors are written the legends of Vlad Tepes. The funny thing is that Vlad Tepes has never lived in that castle but this is the castle described in the famous novel by Bram Stoker - "Dracula". That's why it is so popular.

The yard of the Castle

There was no much snow unfortunately

When we went to Rasnov fortress we saw a sign to Poiana Brasov, the famous ski resort and on our way back we decided to visit it. It was only 10 km far from the city and soon were high in the mountain in the luxury resort. Most of the hotels were in Alpine style, some of them had beautiful lakes, others offered amazing gardens, even in the winter. Somehow, we entered in a restaurant (it didn't look like restaurant from outside but we followed a couple) and we were so surprised of the interior - the roof was low, the chairs were made of logs, covered with lambskin and there were musicians, playing Transylvanian music. Actually we were looking for the toilet but for few minutes we forgot why we were there!

One of the hotels

In the crazy restaurant

Last view to Brasov

In the late afternoon we were again in Brasov where we spent the rest of the day. It was hard to leave the main square so we had a chicken soup in one of the restaurants there. Then, we found our hotel and after a short rest we went out for dinner. I recommend restaurant Ceasu Rau, typical Romanian with nice atmosphere, really kind staff and good prices. It was so cold already but after dinner we visited club Times on Strada Rebuplicii where we run accross a band, playing alive clasical rock music. We couldn't have asked for more.

And that was it - the whole next day we spent in traveling home. It was short but so amazing and fun trip. I stay with warm feelings about this land Transylvania and people there.
Two years later, I had the chance to know more about Medias and Sighisoara but that in another article.

Byala Cherkva - a little piece of heaven in the Rhodope Mountain

If I was not born and grown up in Plovdiv, I wouldn't probably have heard about Byala Cherkva (meaning White Church). It is not very popular resort not only for foreigners but for Bulgarians too. I believe I'm lucky to be born here, so close to the lovely Rhodopes.
Together with Studenets and Zdravets resort (or chatel Zdravets or Zdravets hut) it is a popular destination for Plovdiv people to escape from the big city in the weekend.

View from the hill above Byala Cherkva

Location
Byala Cherkva is located 1600m altitude and about 36 km south from Plovdiv. From the ring road of Plovdiv you can either take the road to Markovo or Belashtitsa. Both ways gets together at Galabovo village. The resort is at the end of the road.
You better go by car as buses are running only to Zdravets(7.50am and 2.30pm from Rhodopi bus station). If you go by bus you need to walk then about 2-2.5 hours. The walk is pleasant but it takes time and really depends on your plans.

Accommodation
The resort is really strange when we're talking about accommodation as there is no such. Well, there is something like a hut but I have no idea what the conditions are inside. Last time we were there we saw a group of people in the yard,drinking coffee but the hut didn't look good. There are more hotels and rest houses in Zdravets and Studenets. Two of the options are hotel Transing or Eco hotel Zdravets.
Camping is a wonderful decision for accommodation. Be prepared with warm clothes as in the night it is getting really cold - could reach 5-6 degrees in July.

What to do
This is the best part when we forget about the other things. In winter in Byala Cherkva you can enjoy skiing. There is a ski slope 1100m length. It is seperated on 2 parts and is suitable for both - beginners and advanced skiers. Also there is a 300m ski slope for kids. A ski run is working up to April.

Herb mashterka (thymus)

In summer time the main activity is hiking. And it is a real pleasure. You can collect herbs,blackberries and blueberries or just enjoy the sun. The weather is great - about 10-15 degrees less than the hotness in the city.
Byala Cherkva is a cross of hiking routes going to the nearby villages through the mountain - Sitovo, Lilkovo, Boykovo, Kosovo. One of the routes to Persenk peak(a beautiful Rhodope peak) is going through the resort and it is panoramic most of the time. It takes about 4.5 hours to Peresnk hut and 1.5 hours more to reach the peak. Amazing views are discovered to the whole mountain - you can see some of the villages on the main road Plovdiv - Smolyan and even Snejanka peak with its tower nearby Pamporovo resort.

Just at the end of the road you could find stables Stela. They offer horse riding routes through the mountain. And I think they offer also accomodation but you have to contact them and ask. The stables are situated just next to the monastery St.St. Peter and Paul, the highest  monastary in Bulgaria. The church is recovered but the other buildings are still under constuction.

The stables, photo by: Stables Stella

If you happen to stay in Plovdiv don't miss to do a day trip to Byala Cherkva. You'll be fascinated of the mountain beauty, I promise.
Enjoy some of the stunning views:

Pavelsko village