Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts

Monday, 24 March 2014

Maiden Cliff



An early spring sunny Sunday morning and a phone call from friends with an offer for a mountain walk in our favorite Rhodope Mountain. This time the suggestion is for a place, called Maiden Cliff. The legend tells of a girl who jumped from this rock (and this is where comes the name of the rock) to avoid becoming a victim of the Turks. There are several places in Bulgaria that have the same name and the common between them is exactly this legend. So if you ever happen to be in a place, called Maiden Cliff, you’d know where it comes from.

After a quick research in internet how to get there and some rapidly prepared sandwiched we were already on the road. Our first destination and departure point was the village of Hrabrino, 15 km southwest of Plovdiv. We were supposed to walk about an hour and we read that we have to follow the white-yellow marking and the signs to hut Zdravets. In the middle of the village, where we parked the car we asked the locals and they explained us better how to reach the path that will lead us to the rocks. At first sight, everything was clear.
A view to the village somewhere on the way
We were walking south, along the river, actually upstream of the river until we reached the first point that we had to decide left or right. The problem was that there was no marking and half of us have remembered right, the others - left. Following the logic we took the left path as this was the direction we had to keep – a little bit to the east and up. But after that we lost the marking. Anyway, we were sure this is the correct path and we followed it for a long time. In about 40 minutes walking, and after a long time we have already lost the path, we saw the chapel we were told it’s on our way. When we finally reached it through some bushes and branches on our way, we realized that we have taken the wrong path. Luckily, following the direction, we managed to find the place. 
In front of the chapel "St. Virgin Mary"


Close to the chapel there is a fountain with cold mountain water and here our both guides exclaimed in one voice: “We’ve been here!” They were so surprised to realize it!  They explained that a friend of theirs took them to the same place a month ago and the departure point was not Hrabrino village but Izvor village, they just didn’t remember the rock name... And there, at the chapel both ways connect in one. At the beginning they felt a little bit screwed up but the place really worth it to be seen, so soon they were happy again.

Taking the path right of the fountain, keeping south west direction and following a cart road, in about 5-10 minutes we reached the rocks. 
And here it came the view, the freedom feeling, the peace, the greatness…In silence we just stood watching and deep breathing. The sun and the wind contributed to the majestic feeling. The river passes down forming wonderful canyon. In late spring probably would be greener and even more beautiful, well, we can always come back. So spectacular views that it was hard to decide which pictures to share (more pictures at the end of the itinerary).




In about an hour resting and collecting moments we went on our way back, this time we took the right path, which by the way seemed to be steeper than our invented path. But the way is going down along the river, all the time and from time to time appeared beautiful landscapes.



Here are some tips for the tourists:

Starting from Hrabrino - go upstream of the river, the direction is south west. There is a marking white-yellow and signs to hut Zdravets. In the beginning you go along a cart road. In about 5 minutes you reach a point where the way goes left and right, take the right way by the river and in 3-4 meters you’ll see the marking again. If you take the left one, you’ll lose the marking immediately. After some 200-300 meters you’ll see a yellow-orange fence and just before it, the path goes left. Then you can’t miss it if you follow the marking. The way to the chapel is steep but it’s not impossible even for kids or old people. After the chapel you take the cart road on the right and soon the rocks appear. The whole way takes about 45-60 minutes.

Starting from Izvor (Izvor is located about 4-5 km east of Hrabrino) – you park in the center, where there is only a square and the famous building from the past communist time that used to be a shop, restaurant and hotel together, the so-called “HoReMag”. Go up the street that passes by the building and maybe you can ask the locals, but the tip here is that your way passes by the cemetery which is above the village. Our friends told us that it’s about 20 minutes walking and the way is very easy. You’ll see the chapel on your right and you should continue straight to reach the cliffs.

If you happen to make this journey, don't hesitate to ask me for more details.
And the rest of the photos:









Tuesday, 8 November 2011

Beaches and forest together - the middle part of the Black Sea coast

The temperature is 4 degrees outside but I'm thinking of the seaside. I am imagining being at the beach, the weather is hot, there are no umbrellas or anything I can hide but I have a hat and a cold beer in my hand. This is one of those deserted beaches between the rocks which are incised into the sea...and that picture reminds me to some beautiful places at the Bulgarian Black Sea coast. I will continue my trip south of Varna.
Blue blue sea...
The "port" of Kanchia river just 200m far from its firth
The route is not going beside the coast beacuse of the rocks but it passes through little villages and amazing forest. The only thing is that it is very busy as this ian important way connecting the two biggest seaside cities - Varna and Burgas. We don't drive fast so that we could enjoy the journey. Our first stop is the firth of Kamchia river, this crazy river is being comforted and calmly flows into the Black Sea. Unique dense forests in the biosphere reserve in conjunction with the vast dunes of the protected area make this corner of the Black Sea coast between Varna and Burgas in a great place for relaxation and fishing. We made a little boat trip on the river from its firth to the little wild fishing village.
Hiding in the forest
Then comes Shkorpilovtsi, a little village with a wide beach and some bungalows you can hire and forget about the big city for a long time. The place is an ideal combination of natural resources. This extreme eastern hills of Stara Planina wade into the waters of the Black Sea including forests and long sandy beaches. We passed through Byala, the last city in Varna region. I've been here when I was a little girl and I have great kid memories. Next time we'll definitely stop and explore it.

A park in Obzor
Only 2 km after crossing "the border" between Varna and Burgas regions we found Obzor, which has the longest beach in Bulgaria - 8km. Now its a modern small town-resort but Obzor was built more that 3000 years ago and still keeps its remains and spirit. After 2 days enjoying the town and its beach we continued to the next destination that I loved - Emine cape. The cape deserves to be seen as it is an impressive rock that is 60m high! Still there is a working lighthouse at its end. Emine cape is the natural border between north and south part of the Bulgarian seaside. If you go there plan a little bit more time as you'd need to pass the last 5km over an awful road - it took us half an hour. I don't wanna dissuade you, you won't regret the view!
Emine cape with the Lighthouse
Passing through the mountain we reach St. Vlas resort, a sunny place with lots of hotels connected to the most popular resort at the Bulgarian coast - Sunny Beach. It might be the most popular but the worst in my opinion. Why? Beacuse of the mess and chaos around. It is full of hotels - one, two,...., up to 5 star ones, luxury and ordinary too, crowded all the time. I hate to be stepped on all the time and I usually don't go to the beach there. And also Sunny Beach has not a good fame in the last years. They say that thousands juvenile teenagers of whole Europe come here every summer because nobody stops them drinking and cause it's the cheapest famouse resort in Europe...As I said my opinion. But the beach and bay are beautiful! If you still insist on comming and see it, then you can find accomodation in the nearest city - Nesseber. They are actually connected but Nesseber is old, ancient, interesting mysterious - everything that Sunny Beach is not! It's an amazing experience to dine in a restaurant beside the sea in the old town!
Beautiful Nessebar, photo by tschinar.net
Our trip will stop here now. Well, it's almost winter now and I need to be back in the reality. But promise you soon to warm you with the next part of the Bulgarian Black Sea coast trip.

Friday, 2 September 2011

The journey along the Black Sea continues to the south

Wind park near Kaliakra
Last time we stopped at Kaliakra cape - the most beautiful cape at the Bulgarian part of the Black Sea. 
Now we continue with the next destination: Kavarna, a little town situated by the sea. Two things come on my mind when talking about Kavarna - the mussel farm and the rock fest. The mussel farm is an unique place where you can receive always  fresh mussels, cooked in different ways. In addition you receive an amazing view. The rock fest in Kavarna takes place since 2000 and it's the best summer festival by the sea. For those 11 years it has hosted the most popular rock and metal bands and thousands of people have enjoyed the performances.
Going on the road we reach Balchik, another small city in the region but with beautiful gardens and places to visit. Be prepared to spend at least 2-3 hours in the amazing Balchik Palace, built in 1926 by the Romanian Queen Maria. When she saw the place, she fell in love with it and wanted immidiately to have a residence at that place. Just next to the Palace is situated the fascinating Botanic Garden of Sofia University, mostly famous with its cactus collection.

The cactus section of Balchik garden
An interesting way to reach the next resort - Albena is on foot. There is a unique alley, called Dambata which connects Balchik and Albena.
The alley is almost 8 km long and besides the stunning views you can also enjoy a lunch in one of the restaurants there. Albena itself is one of the 3 most popular resorts by the Bulgarian coast and my impression is that it is the most luxury and peacefull resort.
 Only 3 km south is situated Kranevo village.  The beach of Kranevo is probably the widest by the Bulgarian coast and the sand is so fine. At the beach is located Vanilla beach bar which makes great parties during the summer.


Passing through small campings (and they're so much along the coast) we carry down Zlatni Piasatsi or more famous in English - Golden Sands, the most popular resort at the Northen Black Sea Coast. Intersting luxury hotels, restaurants and expensive bars, souvenir alley and an amazing  amusement park Aquapolis, make the tourists' holiday pleasent and exciting. It is very crowded in high season but it's full of attractions.
Monastery St. St. Constantine and Elena
The next resort is St.St. Constantine and Elena. Before 1989 it was called Druzhba and still some people that call it with its old name. I catch myself telling you that every resort is beautiful. I' m sorry but that's almost  the truth. So Constantine and Elena is again a wonderful place located in a little forest by the coast that makes you walk in the hottest weather without feeling the hotness. In the heart of the resort is located Monastery St.St. Constantine and Elena. When you enter the Monastery yard, you immidiately feel the privacy of that holy place, it seems like you're not in a luxury resort. It sends you back in the years. A holy spring with healing water is located there and people believe in its power especially for eye and skin problems.

So far we reach Varna. There is so much to be tell about the Sea capital of Bulgaria - there is the Main Bulgarian Port, a fantastic resort, third city in Bulgaria, historical place and so on and so on. I love it as my second home, I come here every summer but I'll never be tired of it. Read more about it in my virtualtourist page. Varna is great for partying because of the many clubs and restaurants on the alley by the beach. Varna is great for resting because of the amazing Sea Garden. Varna is great for cultural tourism because of the dozens festivals in the city. Enjoy Varna as long as you can.
View to Varna from Galata cape
We're going down by the cost to reach the place where the mountain cuts the sea.

Tuesday, 23 August 2011

By the Black Sea

So many things could be written about the Bulgairan Black Sea coast, about its beaches, resorts and sunrises. Although the Bulgarian coast is only 354km long and although I will write only few words about different places I will need at least 4-5 articles to mention all (or almost all) the resorts and villages.
And as a lover of the North part of the Black Sea, I'm starting with the most northern part of the Bulgarian Black sea coast.
The beautiful north rocky coast
The Bulgarian- Romanian border passes through Sivriburun cape and only 7 km south of it is Durankulak village. The village is not situated exactly by the sea but 2.5 km inside in the country. Walking or drivinng that distance, you reach Cosmos camping. North of the camping is the most northern beach in Bulgaria, called Ana Maria ( it's name comes from a Greek ship, aground there in 1969). If you walk along the south beach you'll reach Krapets. It is a small village that perfectly combines sea tourism, together with hunting, fishing and eco- tourism. The village is also famous with its special fish soup.
The lighthouse at Shabla cape, photo by Laska
Between Durankulak and Krapets is situated lake Durankulak which is a protected area. In the north part of the lake there are archeological excavations proving that the first husbandmen of those lands are from 5000 year b.c. Going south you'll reach Shabla, a Bulgarian town situated on the main road, 8 km west from Shabla cape. There, on the cape you can see the oldest still active lighthouse on the Balkans. Many vessels have sunken in the sea around Shabla in the World War II. This is one of the reasons the place to be preferred destination for underwater tourism.

The next stop is Tyulenovo, a village with amazing nature. Presence of seals was noticed during the 40-s of the last century. It is a good place for them because of the combination of caves, low level rocks and winds. That is why the village is called Tyulenovo (a place for seals). Unfortunately those seals have already dissapeared from there. Tyulenovo is ideal for diving, rock climbing and camping. Only 5 km south from Tyulenovo is located the village of Kamen Bryag. As Tyulenovo is, Kamen bryag is also around beautiful rocks. On first of July, every year people celebrate July Morning. This tradition comes from the hippy era in the 1980s, that has started in Varna. People from the whole the country come to the Black Sea coast (Kamen briag is prefered placefor this) to meet the sunrising. The name of the celebration is connected with the song of  Uriah Heep "July Morning". Near Kamen briag is located Yailata- a region that represents archaeological preserve. This is seaside terrace area separated from the sea of ​​rocks 50-60 m in height. In the area there are plenty of rock caves that in the past have been used as monasteries.
Kamen briag, meaning "Stone coast"

Not very popular but prefered by people who really want to rest is Rusalka resort. It is calm and peaceful resort and not crowded at all. There you could see remains of Byzantine fortress- Tauk liman.

Our last stop of this article is Kaliakra cape, long and narrow. The coast is with steep cliffs about 70 m high.
Kaliakra cape
A legend tells for 40 Bulgarian girls who tied their hair together and jumped into the Black Sea instead of being captured by the Ottomans. The name of the most enthusiastic girl was Kaliakra. There is a monument  in front of the fortress, called The Gate of the 40 Maidens.
Being there and feeling the wind makes you feel the freedom.

An interesting trip around the North coast of the Bulgarian Black Sea has made Laska, read in her blog.
Next stop - Varna and its surroundings.

Sources: my impressions and knowledge and wikipedia.

Tuesday, 19 July 2011

Byala Cherkva - a little piece of heaven in the Rhodope Mountain

If I was not born and grown up in Plovdiv, I wouldn't probably have heard about Byala Cherkva (meaning White Church). It is not very popular resort not only for foreigners but for Bulgarians too. I believe I'm lucky to be born here, so close to the lovely Rhodopes.
Together with Studenets and Zdravets resort (or chatel Zdravets or Zdravets hut) it is a popular destination for Plovdiv people to escape from the big city in the weekend.
View from the hill above Byala Cherkva
Location
Byala Cherkva is located 1600m altitude and about 36 km south from Plovdiv. From the ring road of Plovdiv you can either take the road to Markovo or Belashtitsa. Both ways gets together at Galabovo village. The resort is at the end of the road.
You better go by car as buses are running only to Zdravets(7.50am and 2.30pm from Rhodopi bus station). If you go by bus you need to walk then about 2-2.5 hours. The walk is pleasant but it takes time and really depends on your plans.

Accommodation
The resort is really strange when we're talking about accommodation as there is no such. Well, there is something like a hut but I have no idea what the conditions are inside. Last time we were there we saw a group of people in the yard,drinking coffee but the hut didn't look good. There are more hotels and rest houses in Zdravets and Studenets. Two of the options are hotel Transing or Eco hotel Zdravets.
Camping is a wonderful decision for accommodation. Be prepared with warm clothes as in the night it is getting really cold - could reach 5-6 degrees in July.

What to do
This is the best part when we forget about the other things. In winter in Byala Cherkva you can enjoy skiing. There is a ski slope 1100m length. It is seperated on 2 parts and is suitable for both - beginners and advanced skiers. Also there is a 300m ski slope for kids. A ski run is working up to April.

Herb mashterka (thymus)
In summer time the main activity is hiking. And it is a real pleasure. You can collect herbs,blackberries and blueberries or just enjoy the sun. The weather is great - about 10-15 degrees less than the hotness in the city.
Byala Cherkva is a cross of hiking routes going to the nearby villages through the mountain - Sitovo, Lilkovo, Boykovo, Kosovo. One of the routes to Persenk peak(a beautiful Rhodope peak) is going through the resort and it is panoramic most of the time. It takes about 4.5 hours to Peresnk hut and 1.5 hours more to reach the peak. Amazing views are discovered to the whole mountain - you can see some of the villages on the main road Plovdiv - Smolyan and even Snejanka peak with its tower nearby Pamporovo resort.

Just at the end of the road you could find stables Stela. They offer horse riding routes through the mountain. And I think they offer also accomodation but you have to contact them and ask. The stables are situated just next to the monastery St.St. Peter and Paul, the highest  monastary in Bulgaria. The church is recovered but the other buildings are still under constuction.

The stables, photo by: Stables Stella
If you happen to stay in Plovdiv don't miss to do a day trip to Byala Cherkva. You'll be fascinated of the mountain beauty, I promise.
Enjoy some of the stunning views:








Pavelsko village

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Where the Danube leaves Bulgaria

Exactly 375 km before the Danube flows into the Black sea the river is no longer a border between Bulgaria and Romania but it goes straight north into Romanian lands. There, on the right coast of the river is situated Silistra - an ancient Bulgarian city. 
Originating as a Thracian settlement later conquered by the Romans and survived as an important medieval Bulgarian fortress - ancient ruins, a Roman tomb with frescoes kept, fortress and museum keep the history of this region.And if you're interested in learning more about the city I have some recommendations for places to visit:

View to the city from the nearest hill
Medjidi tabia fortress
This is the most preserved fortress from the Turkish times. It has been an important part of the fortifying system of the city. It was built in 1841-1853 by 300 Bulgarians.In 1847 г. it was visited by sultan Abul Medjit who was really surprise and interested by the fortress and that's why it is named on him - Medjidi tabia. The fortress also takes part in the Krim war started in 1853 in Silistra.It is located at the Southern side of the city. Medjidi tabia is working every day only for one euro entrance fee.

Medjidi tabia fortress from outside
Historical museum
Of course there is no historical city without a historical museum. Inside you can enjoy an archeological exposition with valuable monuments that were found from different times - unique exponents from Roman period and a column of khan Omurtag. The museum is cituated in the center of the city but unfortunately it is not working on Sunday and Monday.

The art gallery
Some of the Roman remains and the Romanian coast on the left
Take a walk along the river in the beautiful park
Danube park is my favorite place in the city. It is a great decision to escape from the hot weather in summer. You can walk along its alleys or just sit and admire the Quiet White Danube.


Wooden train for kids

And the gorgeous river
When you finish with the city you can just leave it and go straight to the Beosphere Preserve of Sreberna.
The preserve spreads Srebarna lake and the territory around(18km west of Silistra). The most interesting plants there are water-lily, rush, reed, etc - more than 130 types, some of them endangered of disappearing. The bird world here in incredibly rich,there are such rare and worth kinds of birds – pelicans, stag of a fallow deer, herons, ibises, wild ducks and geese, etc. There could be seen also – otters, tortoises, lake crabs, etc. In the museum nearby you can enjoy watching the birds in details using the two telescopes. An echo path is going around the lake – a 2 days walk will be the best to see everything around although a day trip is also a good option.
There are regular buses from Silistra's bustation.

Srebarna lake



In the region
If you are looking for accomodation around,  I'd advise you to stay in some of the river villages. Of course choosing a hotel in Silistra is a good idea too but booking a room in guesthouse will touch you even more to the incredible nature around the Danube. My suggestion is for village Vetren, only 5 km far from Srebarna, on the river coast. Here is a list of few hotels and guesthouses and this is the house where we spent one night. The website is is Bulgarian but you'll easily find the pictures and contacts. You can go for a walk around the beautiful village and have a fresh fish even just besides the river. The village was so quiet and calm and it took me far away from the busy and dusty city to this little land of paradise.

Fishing boats at Vetren coast


Our guesthouse