The Ice Queen Oslo

It's been so long since I haven't posted anything in my blog. Luckily, or unfortunately, the reason was not that there is nothing to post but I'm too busy (and kind of lazy) to do it. Finally I sat on my own with some pictures and decided to share my experience and impressions of the best trip I had in the past year in the most beautiful country I've been - Norway!

Center of Oslo

 I've always wanted to visit this amazing place and I guess I was waiting for the perfect moment to appear. It was in a December evening when I opened my email and a friend of mine has sent me only this sentence: "What about few days in Norway in January?" Without any hesitation I accepted. As we both have friends there it was not difficult to take this decision. So, the preparation started and we soon were at the airport impatient to start the journey.
We arrived late in the evening at the Oslo Airport  Gardemoen and her friends were waiting for us. Soon we were at there house in Mysen, 60 km far from Oslo. The next 2 days were dedicated to the Norwegian Capital.

What we saw in Oslo:

Vigeland's Park -  It's an unique sculpture park with more than 200 sculptures made by bronze and granite . The great sculptor Gustav Vigeland  has made human figures from their childhood to their old age in different poses and scenes of their lives.
It's not only that I visited in January, but it was dark and I'm so sorry I cannot offer you what should be seen in the park. In Oslo, in the winter it gets dark early at 4:00 pm, so please, have it on mind if you visit the country at this time. And one tip - if there is snow, climb the central stairs, where the snow is cleaned, not the side ones. I was so surprised to see how my friends were walking so fast and the other 2 of us were like creeping from the left side. It's really simple and close to the mind but I'm not very logical every time.

The Royal Palace - The Palace is a symbol of the Norwegian history. It was made as a residence for King Carl Johan in 1849 but it was not finished util his death. The Royal Palace is owned by the state and there live the royal family which actually has no real political power in the country, only a representative. The current monarch is Harald V. It is open for 2 months for visitors in the summer and the price for a guided tour is 95 NOK (13 EUR) so we could enjoy it only from outside (still very good).

The Oslo Opera House - It is one of the newest opera houses in the World, built in 2007. Its construction costed  40 million EUR!!! It has more than 1000 rooms and the main hall has almost 1400 seats. To be honest I liked the building but  it didn't impressed me much. When I heard about the money it took I understood why the locals are so proud of this building - they just have to!

Karl Johans gate - This is the main street in Oslo, connecting the Central Oslo Station (famous as Oslo S) and The Royal Palace. Except the shops and the nice architechture buildings, the street includes many of Oslo's tourist attractions - The Royal Palace, Stortinget (The Norwegian Parliament), The National Theater, The Old University Buildings, Park Spikersuppa  which serves as a skating rink in winter.

The Parliament

Oslo Cathedral - The main Cathedral, called Our Savior's Church was built in the late 15th century. It was originally located 1.5 km from the present building. After the big fire was built on its present site in 1697.

Holmenkollen (an island of the hill) is a famous hill above Oslo, where there are trails for ski jumping and many other winter-sport activities. Each year at the ski festival this trail is teeming with people. It has also nice view to the city unless it's foggy. There is a restaurant on the top of the hill and even if you don't feel like entering you may just have a stop and enjoy Oslo from above.

The biggest trail

The foggy view

Of course, there is more to see in Oslo like Viking Ship Museum, Folk Museum, Fortress Akershus, and many others but I left something for next time.

When it was already dark and cold outside we visited one of the shopping malls in Oslo (Oslo City Mall) and took a walk around. It was like in every Mall - luxury shops and cafes, nothing special but warm. It was a real fun as we entered in a man's clothing store buying some clothes for our host ...the retails tried to offer their best but always one of us disagreed for something.
It's close to the railway station and it has a warm connection (a tunnel over the street) between them. It's also very close to the Opera House and you may see its lights in the evening, it's beautiful.

One of the evenings we celebrated our host birthday at a restaurant by the harbour. The pedestrian zone is called Akker Brygge and is famous with its restaurants and cafes. I bet it's really pleasant to have a walk during the sunny summer but at -13 degrees with strong wind along the fjord we were in a hurry to get into the restaurant. It was a Steak House - Jensens Biffhuss, offering delicious food but nothing typical Norwegian. I was really amazed by the prices, actually not exactly in this restaurant but in general in the country. A meal for 5 with a bottle of wine, few beers and 3 starters costed about 450-500 EUR!
I was also surprised by the fact that the waitress didn't know Norwegian but only English (she was from Czech Republic) so I found out for real that in Norway they accept English almost as an official 2-d language and to work there it's not necessary to know the local language as everybody speaks English.
Anyway, we ended the night in one bar with beers where we had lots of fun! Maybe here's the right moment to thank again to Steve for the lovely time we spent in Oslo.

Delicious steak

And after this long night I had to wake up at 5 am and take the train to the amazing Flam valley that would be my next story ( I'll try to make it really soon). But this is the hard life of the traveler - experience a lot in a short time.

The snow white journey to Flam and Bergen

Some of the spectacular landscape

As I had to wake up too early in the morning, Peter was so kind to drive me to the station in Mysen so that I can take the train to Oslo (See the first part of my Norway trip). It was a working day and there were so many people in that early hour that were going to work. In 50 minutes I was already at the Oslo S and easily took my ticket to Myrdal, the place where I was supposed to take the tourist Flam train. So, with a coffee and a sandwich I got on the comfortable train. There was a group of maybe 20-30 people, dressed in ski clothes, going for some winter holiday. They were at different ages and all seemed happy and enthusiastic for what they were about to experience.
I spent most of the time looking through the window and enjoying the view. I've been told that the line Oslo-Bergen offers one of the most scenic rail journeys and I guess it's true, at least from what I have seen before. The thermometer in the train was showing the temperature outside -17/-18 degrees but it was sunny and I felt warm inside. Those few hours passed pretty fast and soon I was at Myrdal Station impatient for the next  hour trip - the one I have come for, the wonderful Flam Valley!

The sky above Myrdal

In the train I met two Brazilians on their Europe tour (they have already passed through Bulgaria and I was surprised we were talking about my home place) and we were helping each other with the pictures in the next one hour. The train was moving too slow so that we can revel the landscape and feel it. There were few stops, even they let us go out of the train at Kjosefossen waterfall which was frozen in the all shades of the white - so beautiful! We passed through numerous tunnels, winding along the way and spectacular valleys. I can only imagine how amazing it would be in the summer to see it all green and blue...We arrived at Flam, where my friend was waiting for me and we proceed to Bergen. All the way in the mountain was so beautiful again, we passed through Naeroyfjiord which is an arm of Sognefjord - the biggest one in Norway. On our way was also Vossevangen town, famous with its water but we didn't stop as we were hurrying to catch Bergen at least 2 hours before it gets dark. By the way, in Norway I drank the most delicious water ever. People there don't buy water, they drink it directly from the tap and it is more than tasty.

The touristic train

Kjosefossen waterfall

The tunnels on the way

Naeroyfjord

At the market

In Bergen, we parked in the center of the city and our first stop was the Fish Market. It used to be an open market but an year ago they have made it indoor. They say it is the biggest market in the region as Bergen used to be the most important fish producing and trading center in Norway (and still is one of the significant industries).
There was a huge variety of fish and seafood and all looked so fresh, like just caught from the sea. And of course, it didn't seem cheap at all - the prawns were 15 EUR/ half kg...but this is Norway.

Bryggen 

Just about 200 m away from the    market is the soul of Bergen, the old  warehouses Bryggen (translated from Norwegian - dock) overlooking the harbor. Their characteristic front is emblematic for the city. Once they were the center of the Hanseatic League and now they are turned into ethnographic shops and galleries and are part of the World Heritage of UNESCO.

Behind the facade they are formed like a little village with small streets, wooden buildings and interesting architecture.

Behind the beautiful facade 

Slightly behind the iconic houses begins the Old Town of Bergen. Fabulous small steep streets with white houses are crossing around it. I noticed that most of them are paved just as in my home city - Plovdiv. Interesting paintings on some house walls's diversify the visitors. Even the small table with flowers in front of one house was really charming in the sunny winter afternoon. It was so quite and it was hard to realize that I'm in the middle of the second biggest city of Norway.

It was time to take a look at the city from above. Railroad Floibanen drove us to the top of the nearby hill. We were thinking of climbing on foot but we were afraid not to miss the sun and the day so we took the funicular. It goes through the Old town and has few stops. I have no idea how people live there, it seems so sheer.
Already on the top, a spectacular view of the city oped in front of us - the harbor, fjords and the sea in the distance. For sure it was one of the best city views I've seen, just breathtaking! I didn't feel the cold weather, just feeling the sun and the freedom. Thanks again to my friend for bringing me there!
There is also a souvenir shop on the top and a cafe so that you can stay little longer and warm yourself with a cup of coffee or tea.

From the Floibanen

The day started to get down and we still had to drive few more hours to Karmoy island. On our way out of the city we stopped for the last time to see Fantoft Stave Church. The Stave Churches are characteristic wooden churches of the Vikings. In Norway there are about 25 of them reserved and in northern Europe 5-6. This one dates from 12th century but after a huge fire it was completely devastated and rebuilt in 1992. I hoped to see it from inside too but in the winter season it is closed for visitors...as I always say - next time.

Late in the evening we arrived at my friend's place tired but full of emotions during the day. A wonderful island trip was planned for the next day....

Here you can see more pictures from Bergen and Oslo and Flam Valley.

A couple of days in Bonn and Cologne

When I landed at the airport of Cologne/Bonn for the first time, I started to look at both cities as they were one, just because of the airport name without knowing much about them. Later, people were telling me that Cologne is much more beautiful than Bonn and that in Bonn there is nothing to see. That is totally not true – they’re both so different and interesting or at least the parts I saw. A month ago, I had the chance be taken around and I’m very satisfied of my experience.

View from Cologne Cathedral

The love bridge and the Cathedral

The first day of my weekend, my friend took me to Cologne for some shopping and of course to see the Cathedral Sts. Peter and Maria. I had already seen it before but only from outside as it had been closed. Now it was open and we entered – The Cathedral is huge and spacious and there were 2 big organs inside. Hundreds of tourists went in and out for the time we were there. The best emotion of that visit was climbing up one of the towers – 533 steps to the top in the narrow tower! People from the top were coming down in the same time we were climbing up and it was turn after turn…as my friend said: “The best part of every visit here is the adrenaline from that feeling”. On the top there was a great view to the whole city, Rheine and the bridges.

On our way to the Cathedral we passed through the Bridge of love – I haven’t seen so many love padlocks at one place! There we thousands of them in different colours and sizes. The lovers had written their names and the date of their anniversary or the date of “locking their love”. Even there was a couple on their wedding day taking photos there.

The colourful padlocks

Schildergasee - the shopping street

After that experience we went through the Shopping Street of Cologne. It was crowded in and outside the shops. We stopped for some classic pommes frites with mustard. Then, in a wonderful French pastry shop, we had amazing cakes, I wanted to try from everything but there was no space in my stomach anymore. Meanwhile we met two parties of girls that were out for a maiden party. The German girls has very interesting tradition when it is about the maiden party – the bride’s friends buy some candies, snacks, chewing gums, condoms, lollipops, little jewelries and the aim of the future bride is to sell them at the street. I was trying to take a photo of them while one of the girls saw me and started shouting in German running towards me. First I was shocked, thinking that she has something against but then I realized she wants to sell me something. After bargain a little bit I had a condom for 1 EUR. Everybody was happy at the end.

The Mayden Party Group

Poppelsdorfer Castle

The next day we spent in Bonn, the capital “Federal Republic of German”. Nothing much left there after the capital moved back in Berlin except the central of The United Nations and the main building of Douche post but the city is still beautiful and one of the reasons is Rheine, something that cannot be changed. First we had a walk around the center and the old buildings, the City Hall, The church Munster and the homonymous square, where is situated a statue of Beethoven. People in Bonn are very proud, as although he has spent his life in Vienna, Beethoven has been born in Bonn. We also walked through the University to the Castle of Poppelsdorfer and the Botanical Garden. What surprised me a lot was a small glass cabin in the alley, close to the University, that was full with books. It was not locked and people have the chance to take a book, read it and then turn it back. And it was standing there, untouched of the vandals, something that it is impossible in my country.

The book cabin

Monument of Beethoven

Rhein park

The whole day we were riding bikes, it hadn’t happened to me for few years. And although my ass was hurting me because of 7 hours on the bike’s seat, it was a perfect sunny day with free thoughts, pleasant company and relax. Inna, my friend, took me through the big Rheine Park where we enjoyed The Japanese garden, ice cream and sun. Then we went to Drachenburg Castle that is in the nearest town – Koningswinter. To reach the other side of the river we had to use a ferry, two minutes and we crossed the river. The Castle was built at the end of 19 – the century by a rich baron but he has never lived there. The area is beautiful and there is a great view to Rheine and Bonn. On our way back to the little town we decided to take the funicular as we saw it coming. But when asking for the price, the guy said 7 EUR! Hmm, we decided that it is not worth to pay this amount and we turned back. The guy shouted something after us and then he said: “It would be free for you” and he winged. Hehe, how to miss such an opportunity!

That was a perfect spontaneous 2-days German trip that I really enjoyed, thanks to my friend Inna. For the first time I was not following the main attractions and sightseeing but I felt as a real traveler with a close guide! 

Some more photos of the trip: 

The Japanese Garden

Drachenburg Castle

Rhein from the Castle

The  funicular

Around Koningswinter

Green parks in Dusseldorf

The lake in front of Bentrath Palace

Two years ago was my first time in Dusseldorf due to a business trip and as usually I spent all my evenings outside, trying to explore more and more of the city. I discovered how beautiful it is and as I was told later - one of the most interesting and fascinating German cities. This year I also had the chance to spend one more week there, this time paying more attention on the streets and parks.

My first day started from Benrath Palace that consist of 3 main buildings (museums) and a huge park - garden with a lake. The museums are of European Garden History, Corps de Logis, and Museum of Natural History. I visited only the first one and I'm so sorry it was forbidden to take pictures inside as there were amazing exponents. It has 2 floors and shows paintings, models, sound effects, movies, sculptures and all you can imagine connected with the garden art. Unfortunately most of the information was in German so I hardly understood it. The weather was so warm and people were outside, enjoying the lovely flowers and grass in the park, where by the way you can see also some herbs and vegetables. Benrath Palace is situated in the southest part of the city and it's easily accessible by U74 or tram 701.

The garden behind it

The glass dome

After some circules around that area, I got on tram 701 and stopped at Sudpark to reach the Botanical garden. I had to ask few times about the directions as the station was a little bit far from the garden but I found it. Actually it's better take U79 or tram 707 to their last station. Anyway, I passed through the Heinrich Heine University of Dusseldorf and reached the Botanical Garden. Luckily, there was no entrance fee (probably because it was of the University) and I firstly entered the glass dome, where the climate was Mediterranean and are growing plants, brought from The Canaries, New Zeland, Australia and Asia. I felt as I was in a tropical forest. There is also a new house - orangery with plants from South Africa and a small garden, called Pharmacy Garden - probably some pharmacy herbs. I ended walking around the other plants in the garden with a cup of coffee. On my way back I saw the jazz tram - a touristic tram playing jazz music and going around the city. They told me that the ticket cost 14 EUR.

Burgplaz with the pianist

My sunny Sunday ended along Rhein park and Burgplatz in Altstad beside the river where there was a musician with a grand piano, playing nice classical music. People around were applauding after every song and a dog was barking in harmony with the them.

In the next 5 days I was working up to 6 pm but still had the chance to visit some other parks at sunset. The first one I passed through was Hofgarten, the most central and biggest in Dusseldorf. What made me the biggest impression was an alley with illuminated benches. Actually there were fluorescent lights in each edge of the bench and also it was keeping warm. Later I was told that there was some art project few years ago and they left the benches. Then I stopped near a lake with a lot of ducks in it and around its coast. When I got closer to take a picture of them, one of the ducks went against me, croaking. "Hey, ok, I'm going back..." and in that moment a rat passed just in front of me. Wondering what was that, another rat ran into the bushes. What a zoo!

The benches!

Japanese Cultural Eco-house

In my previous post about Dusseldorf, I told you also about Nordpark, the park that amazed me with its Japanese garden. I searched for some more information about the Japanese community in the city and I found out they have a Cultural Eco House at the west coast of Rhein in the nice area of Niederkassel (buses 833, 834 and close to U-bahn - U74, U76, U77). Curious to take a look around I went one early evening and of course it was closed. There were some announcements about concerts but with my luck they were for other days. At least I peeped through the fence and saw some parts of their beautiful garden. As I always say - next time!

My other free time was spent around the restaurants and bars but there is not so much to talk about them. Or I could write something is I got my memories back ;)

And as a final - my favorite view:

Rhein and the sunset