Pre-Christmas in Brasov II

The breathtaking view

After spending the previous day in Brasov it was time to go around its surroundings. On the next day we had an early fast breakfast, took our luggage and proceeded to Bran to see the popular Dracula's castle. Going out of the city I enjoyed one of the best pictures I've seen - we were in the fields, the sky was clear and blue, it was sunny and the snowy peaks of the mountain were right across us. I live close to the mountain but I rarely remember such a view!

In 15min we were already in Rasnov, a small town near Brasov. Before entering the town we saw a fortress on the hill above it and we decided to see what it is. We ended at a big parking where we bougth tickets for the wagon tractor that was about to take us to the top of the hill. Of course you can go on foot but we couldn't miss to ride in such machine. Soon we reached the fortress where we paid 15 lei/ person to enter. It is a medieval fortress and it has perfect location - view to 360 degrees. It's like a little town with streets and even there are souvenirs shops. You can also receive touristic information inside.

Romanias love to put signs, style "Holywood"

The strange vehicle

Around the fortress streets

Bran's Castle

Time was passing and soon we were on our way back to Bran. In the middle of the town there were parkings on both sides of the road saying: "Parking of the Castle" inviting you to stop and use their service. At least it was cheap - 2 lei/ hour. For the only 500 m we had to walk to the ticket booth, we passed through dozens of stands selling souvenirs, clothes, hats, wine, food, everything you wish. We didn't miss to warm up with hot vin fiert. And there is was - the Castle! To be honest I'm a little bit disappointed of it. Maybe after the castle of Peles I'll hardly love another castle so soon. But they're different - one is older, the other is more luxury and so on. Inside was interesting because of the many towers and stairs we climb, like a labyrinth. On the walls of the last 2 floors are written the legends of Vlad Tepes. The funny thing is that Vlad Tepes has never lived in that castle but this is the castle described in the famous novel by Bram Stoker - "Dracula". That's why it is so popular.

The yard of the Castle

There was no much snow unfortunately

When we went to Rasnov fortress we saw a sign to Poiana Brasov, the famous ski resort and on our way back we decided to visit it. It was only 10 km far from the city and soon were high in the mountain in the luxury resort. Most of the hotels were in Alpine style, some of them had beautiful lakes, others offered amazing gardens, even in the winter. Somehow, we entered in a restaurant (it didn't look like restaurant from outside but we followed a couple) and we were so surprised of the interior - the roof was low, the chairs were made of logs, covered with lambskin and there were musicians, playing Transylvanian music. Actually we were looking for the toilet but for few minutes we forgot why we were there!

One of the hotels

In the crazy restaurant

Last view to Brasov

In the late afternoon we were again in Brasov where we spent the rest of the day. It was hard to leave the main square so we had a chicken soup in one of the restaurants there. Then, we found our hotel and after a short rest we went out for dinner. I recommend restaurant Ceasu Rau, typical Romanian with nice atmosphere, really kind staff and good prices. It was so cold already but after dinner we visited club Times on Strada Rebuplicii where we run accross a band, playing alive clasical rock music. We couldn't have asked for more.

And that was it - the whole next day we spent in traveling home. It was short but so amazing and fun trip. I stay with warm feelings about this land Transylvania and people there.
Two years later, I had the chance to know more about Medias and Sighisoara but that in another article.

Pre-Christmas in Brasov I

Piata Sfatului, Brasov and the Christmas market early in the morning

When it comes about Christmas, people, mostly in Europe, think of visiting Prague, Paris, Vienna, Nurnberg, etc, all those places that are very famous with their Christmas markets and Christmas spirit. To live something different (and because of the great deal I found in internet) we decided to spend few days in Brasov, Romania.

Welcome to Romania, Danube bridge, connecting Bulgaria and Romania

We left Plovdiv early in the morning and proceed to Ruse where we passed the bridge over Danube and went on to Bucharest. All the way we were so careful not to miss the exit to the ring road of the city but unfortunately we did it and we entered Bucharest. At the beginning I was so disappointed because we wanted to escape from the traffic and also we were in a hurry to reach Sinaia before they close the Castle of Peles. It took us one hour to pass through the Romania capital but later we talked to some guys that had passed the city through the ring at the same time and they told us it took them 2 hours! Obviously the road is narrow at some places and there are a lot of traffic lights that stop the traffic. We were so happy we choose the "wrong" way and we managed to reach Sinaia on time. About 30 km before the wonderful resort, we entered the pass in the Carpathians and we passed through lovely little villages and resorts - they were all decorated for Christmas, only snow was missing.

On the road between Bucharest and Sinaia

Finally we found the Peles Castle. It is hidden in the mountain above the town and stays so majestic between the trees. I couldn't stop watching it. And I didn't need to as we had to park the car about 500 m far from it and we could enjoy it while approaching it.
The Castle was built by the Romanian king Carol I in the middle of  XIX century by the project of the German architect Johannes Schultz. The rooms inside are fantastic - there is a dining room, different from the breakfast one, a dance hall, play room (where there was a theater and later a cinema), even a Turkish room and so on and so on. Luxury jets from everywhere. There were 2 mirrors in one of the halls put in a frame of colourful, glass flowers and shined like diamonds. Unfortunatelly we were not allowed to take pictures. The garden is also amazing with stone statues.
Some touristic information: On entering the castle we were told to put on slippers over the shoes to protect it clean. And the entrance fee is not expensive - 20 RON (5 EUR) but is only for the first floor. If you want to visit all 3 floors the cost is 70 RON. The Castle works from 9 to 17 (last group is at 4 p.m. although we saw people entering half an hour later) and it's not working on Monday and Tuesday and it is also closed the whole November.

The gorgeous Castle

It was hard to leave the beautiful castle but it was starting to get dark and we had to move on. After about an hour we reached Bradet, the village where we stayed in the next 2 nights. The hotel was good, recently renovated, all in wood.

In the morning we jumped on the car and went directly to Brasov, 15 km far from that place. And Brasov is an amazing Transilvanian city.

View from the panorama terrace of Tampa hill

At the market

Was it because Christmas was coming or was it because of the sun but people were smiled everywhere, drivers were tolerant (as a difference from the ones in Bucharest) and the mood was high. For a day we walked around the Old City and saw some of its sightseeing. There was a Christmas market at Piata Sfatului (The council square), a big tree and they were playing Christmas music all day. We didn't miss to try vin fiert ,that delicious mulled apple wine and of course the sweet pretzels. We walked around the city walls and visited the White Tower as well as the Hunter Tower. The city walls were built in the middle of 15 century with 8 bastions and 32 towers. Some of them work as museums. The cherry of the cake that day was climbing to the highest point in Brasov - Tampa hill, where there is a spectacular view to the city from a panorama terrace, situated just next to the sign of Brasov. We climbed by the cable car that is situated just next to the Hunters Tower and a round trip ticket cost 15 RON (or about 4 EUR). People say it's a nice one hour walking up to the hill but we didn't have much time and also it was my first time in a cable car. We also had a coffee in the restaurant just next to the window watching the red roofs of the buildings.

Selling vin fiert

The north part of the city wall, on the way to the White Tower

Another interesting place for visiting is Casa Muresenilor, the family house of the famous Romanian family Muresanu that is now turned into a museum. The family has lived there for 5 generations and many of its members were in the high culture circles - musicians, politicians, newspaper editors, etc. The house is located just opposite the square. Do not miss to visit also Biserica Neagra (the Black Church) and the Romanian Orthodox church, both located at the main square. On the west side of the city's wall are both Schei gate and  Catherine gate. They are built in 13th respectively 15th century. The Saxons first established the city and the Germans were living inside, while Romanians were living out of the walls, in the Schei district and they had to pay taxes to enter.

Catherine's gate

It was enough for that long day, we left some things for the next one and went back to the hotel.

Delicious papanas

There was a Romanian folk band in the restaurant, playing folk music and it was a nice evening with a jug of red wine. Everything was fine, including the wonderful dessert that I try for the 3-d time in Romania - Papanas with cream and jam (something like donuts, you just have to try it), until the moment when we ask for the check. In the hotel offer was included the dinner, they told us we can order up to 50 lei and everything above that sum we have to pay. OK, but according the waiter we had to pay 37 lei more and according my calculations - only 10 lei. I had to ask him several times to come and explain me why. He reduced the bill twice until we reached the correct one, inventing different reasons of this "misunderstanding". It was so ugly thing - to try to lie us for 6 EUR. The next morning he came to appology but of course he didn't  confess his guilt and he said something about the computer didn't work properly. Anyway, I'm glad it was the only bad thing that happened at this trip.

On the next day, we left for a day trip out of Brasov to visit the famous Dracula Castle, Rasnov Fortress and the Ski resort Poiana Brasov.

My friend - the reindeer Rudolph

Beaches and forest together - the middle part of the Black Sea coast

The temperature is 4 degrees outside but I'm thinking of the seaside. I am imagining being at the beach, the weather is hot, there are no umbrellas or anything I can hide but I have a hat and a cold beer in my hand. This is one of those deserted beaches between the rocks which are incised into the sea...and that picture reminds me to some beautiful places at the Bulgarian Black Sea coast. I will continue my trip south of Varna.

Blue blue sea...

The "port" of Kanchia river just 200m far from its firth

The route is not going beside the coast beacuse of the rocks but it passes through little villages and amazing forest. The only thing is that it is very busy as this ian important way connecting the two biggest seaside cities - Varna and Burgas. We don't drive fast so that we could enjoy the journey. Our first stop is the firth of Kamchia river, this crazy river is being comforted and calmly flows into the Black Sea. Unique dense forests in the biosphere reserve in conjunction with the vast dunes of the protected area make this corner of the Black Sea coast between Varna and Burgas in a great place for relaxation and fishing. We made a little boat trip on the river from its firth to the little wild fishing village.

Hiding in the forest

Then comes Shkorpilovtsi, a little village with a wide beach and some bungalows you can hire and forget about the big city for a long time. The place is an ideal combination of natural resources. This extreme eastern hills of Stara Planina wade into the waters of the Black Sea including forests and long sandy beaches. We passed through Byala, the last city in Varna region. I've been here when I was a little girl and I have great kid memories. Next time we'll definitely stop and explore it.

A park in Obzor

Only 2 km after crossing "the border" between Varna and Burgas regions we found Obzor, which has the longest beach in Bulgaria - 8km. Now its a modern small town-resort but Obzor was built more that 3000 years ago and still keeps its remains and spirit. After 2 days enjoying the town and its beach we continued to the next destination that I loved - Emine cape. The cape deserves to be seen as it is an impressive rock that is 60m high! Still there is a working lighthouse at its end. Emine cape is the natural border between north and south part of the Bulgarian seaside. If you go there plan a little bit more time as you'd need to pass the last 5km over an awful road - it took us half an hour. I don't wanna dissuade you, you won't regret the view!

Emine cape with the Lighthouse

Passing through the mountain we reach St. Vlas resort, a sunny place with lots of hotels connected to the most popular resort at the Bulgarian coast - Sunny Beach. It might be the most popular but the worst in my opinion. Why? Beacuse of the mess and chaos around. It is full of hotels - one, two,...., up to 5 star ones, luxury and ordinary too, crowded all the time. I hate to be stepped on all the time and I usually don't go to the beach there. And also Sunny Beach has not a good fame in the last years. They say that thousands juvenile teenagers of whole Europe come here every summer because nobody stops them drinking and cause it's the cheapest famouse resort in Europe...As I said my opinion. But the beach and bay are beautiful! If you still insist on comming and see it, then you can find accomodation in the nearest city - Nesseber. They are actually connected but Nesseber is old, ancient, interesting mysterious - everything that Sunny Beach is not! It's an amazing experience to dine in a restaurant beside the sea in the old town!

Beautiful Nessebar, photo by tschinar.net

Our trip will stop here now. Well, it's almost winter now and I need to be back in the reality. But promise you soon to warm you with the next part of the Bulgarian Black Sea coast trip.

The journey along the Black Sea continues to the south

Wind park near Kaliakra

Last time we stopped at Kaliakra cape - the most beautiful cape at the Bulgarian part of the Black Sea. 
Now we continue with the next destination: Kavarna, a little town situated by the sea. Two things come on my mind when talking about Kavarna - the mussel farm and the rock fest. The mussel farm is an unique place where you can receive always  fresh mussels, cooked in different ways. In addition you receive an amazing view. The rock fest in Kavarna takes place since 2000 and it's the best summer festival by the sea. For those 11 years it has hosted the most popular rock and metal bands and thousands of people have enjoyed the performances.
Going on the road we reach Balchik, another small city in the region but with beautiful gardens and places to visit. Be prepared to spend at least 2-3 hours in the amazing Balchik Palace, built in 1926 by the Romanian Queen Maria. When she saw the place, she fell in love with it and wanted immidiately to have a residence at that place. Just next to the Palace is situated the fascinating Botanic Garden of Sofia University, mostly famous with its cactus collection.

The cactus section of Balchik garden

An interesting way to reach the next resort - Albena is on foot. There is a unique alley, called Dambata which connects Balchik and Albena.

The alley is almost 8 km long and besides the stunning views you can also enjoy a lunch in one of the restaurants there. Albena itself is one of the 3 most popular resorts by the Bulgarian coast and my impression is that it is the most luxury and peacefull resort.
 Only 3 km south is situated Kranevo village.  The beach of Kranevo is probably the widest by the Bulgarian coast and the sand is so fine. At the beach is located Vanilla beach bar which makes great parties during the summer.


Passing through small campings (and they're so much along the coast) we carry down Zlatni Piasatsi or more famous in English - Golden Sands, the most popular resort at the Northen Black Sea Coast. Intersting luxury hotels, restaurants and expensive bars, souvenir alley and an amazing  amusement park Aquapolis, make the tourists' holiday pleasent and exciting. It is very crowded in high season but it's full of attractions.

Monastery St. St. Constantine and Elena

The next resort is St.St. Constantine and Elena. Before 1989 it was called Druzhba and still some people that call it with its old name. I catch myself telling you that every resort is beautiful. I' m sorry but that's almost  the truth. So Constantine and Elena is again a wonderful place located in a little forest by the coast that makes you walk in the hottest weather without feeling the hotness. In the heart of the resort is located Monastery St.St. Constantine and Elena. When you enter the Monastery yard, you immidiately feel the privacy of that holy place, it seems like you're not in a luxury resort. It sends you back in the years. A holy spring with healing water is located there and people believe in its power especially for eye and skin problems.

So far we reach Varna. There is so much to be tell about the Sea capital of Bulgaria - there is the Main Bulgarian Port, a fantastic resort, third city in Bulgaria, historical place and so on and so on. I love it as my second home, I come here every summer but I'll never be tired of it. Read more about it in my virtualtourist page. Varna is great for partying because of the many clubs and restaurants on the alley by the beach. Varna is great for resting because of the amazing Sea Garden. Varna is great for cultural tourism because of the dozens festivals in the city. Enjoy Varna as long as you can.

View to Varna from Galata cape

We're going down by the cost to reach the place where the mountain cuts the sea.

By the Black Sea

So many things could be written about the Bulgairan Black Sea coast, about its beaches, resorts and sunrises. Although the Bulgarian coast is only 354km long and although I will write only few words about different places I will need at least 4-5 articles to mention all (or almost all) the resorts and villages.
And as a lover of the North part of the Black Sea, I'm starting with the most northern part of the Bulgarian Black sea coast.

The beautiful north rocky coast

The Bulgarian- Romanian border passes through Sivriburun cape and only 7 km south of it is Durankulak village. The village is not situated exactly by the sea but 2.5 km inside in the country. Walking or drivinng that distance, you reach Cosmos camping. North of the camping is the most northern beach in Bulgaria, called Ana Maria ( it's name comes from a Greek ship, aground there in 1969). If you walk along the south beach you'll reach Krapets. It is a small village that perfectly combines sea tourism, together with hunting, fishing and eco- tourism. The village is also famous with its special fish soup.

The lighthouse at Shabla cape, photo by Laska

Between Durankulak and Krapets is situated lake Durankulak which is a protected area. In the north part of the lake there are archeological excavations proving that the first husbandmen of those lands are from 5000 year b.c. Going south you'll reach Shabla, a Bulgarian town situated on the main road, 8 km west from Shabla cape. There, on the cape you can see the oldest still active lighthouse on the Balkans. Many vessels have sunken in the sea around Shabla in the World War II. This is one of the reasons the place to be preferred destination for underwater tourism.

The next stop is Tyulenovo, a village with amazing nature. Presence of seals was noticed during the 40-s of the last century. It is a good place for them because of the combination of caves, low level rocks and winds. That is why the village is called Tyulenovo (a place for seals). Unfortunately those seals have already dissapeared from there. Tyulenovo is ideal for diving, rock climbing and camping. Only 5 km south from Tyulenovo is located the village of Kamen Bryag. As Tyulenovo is, Kamen bryag is also around beautiful rocks. On first of July, every year people celebrate July Morning. This tradition comes from the hippy era in the 1980s, that has started in Varna. People from the whole the country come to the Black Sea coast (Kamen briag is prefered placefor this) to meet the sunrising. The name of the celebration is connected with the song of  Uriah Heep "July Morning". Near Kamen briag is located Yailata- a region that represents archaeological preserve. This is seaside terrace area separated from the sea of ​​rocks 50-60 m in height. In the area there are plenty of rock caves that in the past have been used as monasteries.

Kamen briag, meaning "Stone coast"

Not very popular but prefered by people who really want to rest is Rusalka resort. It is calm and peaceful resort and not crowded at all. There you could see remains of Byzantine fortress- Tauk liman.

Our last stop of this article is Kaliakra cape, long and narrow. The coast is with steep cliffs about 70 m high.

Kaliakra cape

A legend tells for 40 Bulgarian girls who tied their hair together and jumped into the Black Sea instead of being captured by the Ottomans. The name of the most enthusiastic girl was Kaliakra. There is a monument  in front of the fortress, called The Gate of the 40 Maidens.
Being there and feeling the wind makes you feel the freedom.

An interesting trip around the North coast of the Bulgarian Black Sea has made Laska, read in her blog.
Next stop - Varna and its surroundings.

Sources: my impressions and knowledge and wikipedia.